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A Primer: How to Plant Annuals

 
Megan Bame

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Despite the task of having to replant them every year, gardeners love annuals. They provide abundant color, require little care besides watering and offer the flexibility of trying something new the next year. Annuals are most commonly planted in spring, although summer and fall may also be appropriate for planting in some regions. But no matter where you live, one thing is the same: Proper planting technique can go a long way toward growing healthy annuals.

Planting annuals
Clear away any mulch to make sure the rootball is planted in the soil.
Photo Credit: Andy Bame
Planting annuals
Use a spade to dig a hole deep enough that the rootball is covered, but not so deep that the plant is buried.
Photo Credit: Andy Bame
Planting annuals
Gently compact the soil around and just on top of the rootball to anchor the plant.
Photo Credit: Andy Bame
Planting annuals
Re-mulch if necessary or simply adjust the existing mulch around the plant.
Photo Credit: Andy Bame

Annuals are typically available in packs of three to six plants, or they come in small containers usually no larger than in a 6-inch pot. A common mistake in selecting annuals is to look only at the flowers. Remember that that flower is only gonna be around for a couple days – it’s the leaves that are going to support future growth and flowering! So look for healthy, green leaves that cover the soil. If the leaves are gnarled-looking or if the plant appears unusually compact, pass it by – it may have been stunted sometime during development.

If you must delay planting your annuals once you bring them home, that’s okay – most plants will be fine in the original container for a couple weeks – just don’t forget to water them! Plants left in containers tend to dry out quickly since they’re generally sold at “full size” for the growing container. (Even if you plan to plant your annuals immediately after you return from the garden center, make sure the plants are wet just prior to planting – especially if it’s a warm day.)

Now how do you get your precious little growers out of their cell packs and into your garden?

Have you ever tried to remove a plant from the pack, and you tear the top off? It’s a frustrating experience! Instead of forcing the plant out while holding the cell pack down, loosen the rootball from the cell pack first by squeezing around the plastic cell and pushing up on the bottom. If the plant still won’t pull out easily, check the bottom of the cell pack to see if the roots have grown through the drainage holes. (Sometimes the roots intertwine, essentially locking the plants in place.) If this has happened, simply trim those roots off with pruners or a pair of scissors – or just tear them apart – the plant won’t miss ’em.

It’s best to plant in a prepared bed with loose, well-drained soil, and the only tool you’ll need is a spade. I like to lay my plants out first (right out of their packs) – especially if I want to create a pattern of color. It’s also important at this stage to know the mature size of the plant you’re about to stick in the ground. Most annuals can be planted 6-8 inches apart when put in the bed, but some will be taller than others, and you probably don’t want the tallest plants at the front. After laying them out in your garden to give you an idea of what your bed will look like, use the spade to make a hole deep enough for the entire rootball. Place the plant in the hole and back-fill with the surrounding soil, gently compacting the soil around the plant and just covering the rootball to make sure the hole is completely filled.

After all your plants are put in place, remember to water them in. And adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil will retain moisture and keep the roots cooler. Pine needles and bark nuggets are common mulches to use. (A variety of mulches are available at your local garden center, or you can gather and use your own pine needles if you like.)

Annuals generally require some fertilization for maximum growth and flowering. Most commonly, gardeners top-dress an all-purpose granular fertilizer by sprinkling it around the plants after planting or incorporating it into the soil prior to planting. (When you water the plants and activate the fertilizer, be sure to wash off any granules that may have landed on the plants.)

Keep a close watch on watering for the first couple weeks while the roots grow out and the plants are established. And then enjoy your flowers in the garden – and don’t forget that some of them may make wonderful cut flowers for a bouquet to bring the garden indoors, too!

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Tips
  • Annuals are great choices for container gardening, as well as for beds. Those planted in containers should be spaced at least 4 inches apart. (It may be tempting to create an instantly full container, but it’s important to allow the plants room to grow.)
  • If your bed is already covered with mulch, be sure to brush said mulch away from your intended planting site before digging the hole. The rootball needs to be planted in the soil, not in the mulch.
Definitions
  • Top-dress: To apply fertilizer to the top of the soil, rather than incorporating it into the soil.
Tools
  • The ground can be hard on your knees. Use pads or a kneeling cushion to keep your knees clean, as well as to avoid pain. Some kneeling cushions include side rails to assist in standing after planting or weeding.
 
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