In Frances Burnett’s cherished masterpiece, The Secret Garden, the heroine of the tale discovers emerging bulb sprouts pushing up from neglected flower beds in her hideaway. The girl asks the housemaid if the little bulbs will live a long time without special care. The housemaid replies: “They’re things as helps themselves. … If you don’t trouble ’em , most of ’em’ll work away underground for a lifetime an’ spread out an’ have little ’uns.”
Mix grape hyacinth in with other spring-blooming bulbs for a fantastic show of color!
Photo Credit: Gerald Klingaman
Grape hyacinths bloom from the bottom up.
Photo Credit: Gerald Klingaman
Tuck your grape hyacinths into a corner surrounded by sidewalk so they can’t spread around your garden.
Photo Credit: Gerald Klingaman
Such is the case with grape hyacinth (Muscari aucheri). They’ll have those “little ’uns” in quantity, forming sprawling drifts of green and purple in unexpected places. Large patches are absolutely charming naturalized in woodland gardens or mixed with other spring bloomers. These little bulbs can really pack a surprising punch of color.
Because of their small stature and minute sales volume compared with tulips and daffodils, grape hyacinths are one of the “minor bulbs” of the trade. These pint-size beauties originated in the Mediterranean and Asia Minor and have been cultivated for a long time. Though scorned by some gardeners for their ability to spread, these little lovelies can turn a ho-hum garden into a real showplace!
Muscari grow from thumb-sized, elongated bulbs that produce offsets freely. In fall, fleshy, 10-inch-long, grasslike leaves emerge and splay out across the ground. If winter is hard, the foliage suffers considerably by the time blooms appear in mid-spring. By late spring, the foliage is gone.
While it’s nice to see the bright green foliage come fall, the main attraction of this little plant is the bloom! Grape hyacinths typically have bright cobalt blue flowers clustered about the end of 6-inch-long stems (but white and pale blue cultivars are available). Individual florets are urn-shaped, and the bottommost flowers open first, working their way up to the smaller, less-developed top. The whole cluster is reminiscent of a bunch of grapes, explaining the plant’s common name, and the fragrance is wonderful!
I think grape hyacinths look best when used in mass plantings under large shrubs, mingled among daffodils or naturalized in open woods. Of course, they’re also great in rock gardens or the front of borders.
Like many other spring bulbs, grape hyacinth should be planted in fall. Make sure the bulbs are about 4 inches apart and 4-5 inches deep. They do well in average soil conditions in full sun or part shade in USDA hardiness zones 4-8. Though they’re not heavy feeders, fertilizing them in fall as new foliage appears will help ensure prime-size bloomers.
Grape hyacinth colonies can last for years, but over time you may notice your plantings have fewer flowers. If this happens, it may be because there’s too much shade or the clumps need dividing. Simply lift and divide the clumps as the foliage begins to wither, replanting only the largest bulbs.
The only real issue with these pretty little beauties is the fact they spread so easily – often into unwanted areas like turf. Most of the spread is caused by reseeding, so pinching off spent scapes before the seeds have a chance to mature can remedy the problem. If plants are allowed to reseed, new bulbs won’t usually flower until their fourth year.
Of course the best way to prevent grape hyacinth from spreading is to plant them in spaces where they’ll be free to wander, like in woodland areas. (But do consider how water flows from the site so seeds aren’t washed into lawn areas!)
So keep your eyes (and noses) on the lookout for these lovely, fragrant little bulbs this spring. Perhaps wherever they’re growing will become your own beloved Secret Garden.
