If you’ve got an older lawn, chances are you’ve also got some thatch buildup. The fact is that older lawns – particularly those that received quick-greening fertilizers that spur top growth without providing much root support – are likely to have a thatch issue.
A little bit of thatch (like here) is a good thing. To determine if your lawn has a thatch problem, get down on your knees and inspect the turf carefully. If you can see soil between the blades as you spread them with your fingers, you have normal thatch and no treatment is necessary.
Photo Credit: ©2000 Dolezal Publishing/David Goldberg
To remove thatch in a small lawn, use a special long-spined rake called a “cavex.”
Photo Credit: ©2000 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
What is thatch? It’s the dead, dry remains of turfgrass roots, stolons and rhizomes that don’t decompose as quickly or easily as they should. Spotting thatch is easy: Take a walk across your lawn. Does it feel springy? If so, you have some thatch. Does it feel very springy, and do your feet sink deeply into the lawn? Then you’ve got a lot of thatch. Now get down on your hands and knees and inspect the lawn closely. You should be able to see soil between the blades. If you find fibrous yellow straw-like material, then yes, you’ve got thatch.
Now, some thatch is normal because it helps prevent water runoff, insulates the soil from too much heat, and even denies pests access to roots and stems. If you do see thatch in your lawn, grab a metal ruler or tape measure and stick it into the turf until it hits soil, then note the depth of the thatch layer. Generally, a thatch thickness of less than ¼ an inch is acceptable. If it’s between ¼-½ of an inch, you’re on your way to a thatch problem. If it’s more than half an inch thick, the problem has already arrived and requires immediate treatment.
Too much thatch is an indicator of a general breakdown in the normal decomposition process essential to growing healthy turfgrass. In rich soil with normal biologic processes, thatch is broken down fairly quickly by microorganisms and, most importantly, earthworms – which munch it up and reduce it to precious humus.
Ironically, many of the commercial fertilizers, fungicides and pesticides that get added to our lawns drive up the soil’s acidity and send earthworms and other microbes packing. Without them and their help, thatch doesn’t break down. This dynamic can be reversed by aerating your lawn, “sweetening” the soil to a 6.5-7.0 pH range and topcoating it with rich organic matter like peat moss. Of course you can only use this remedy after you’ve dethatched your lawn.
To remove thatch in a small lawn, you can just rake it out with a special long-spined tool called a “cavex.” For a larger yard, you might want to rent a power rake, also known as a “verticutter” or “vertimower.” This tool works like a mower, but the blades run vertically rather than horizontally, cutting up and lifting the thatch as you push the power rake along. Although the machine is heavy, it’s self-propelled and easy-to-use. (These dethatching machines are available at nearly all tool rental facilities.) For detailed instructions on dethatching, just follow the process shown in the photos and described in the captions. When you’re finished with the job, just rake up the removed thatch and dispose of it.
Dethatch Lawn
Dethatch Lawn - Step 1
With the dethatching machine running, make a single set of passes across the lawn, allowing the machine to set the pace with its drive wheels.
Photo Credit: ©2000 Dolezal Publishing/David Goldberg
Dethatch Lawn - Step 2
After the machine has finished its work, rake the thatch into a pile and remove it. (Thatch generally doesn’t make good compost.)
Photo Credit: ©2000 Dolezal Publishing/David Goldberg
Dethatch Lawn - Step 3
A second raking at a right angle to the first will remove the last of the thatch from your lawn. Remove and dispose of it.
Photo Credit: ©2000 Dolezal Publishing/David Goldberg
Dethatch Lawn - Step 4
Water your lawn thoroughly. New grass should quickly fill in the bare spots created during the dethatching process.
Photo Credit: ©2000 Dolezal Publishing/David Goldberg
