Eliminate Those Grassy Weeds

Email Page

Print Page

Carol A. Crotta

Extras

Add Photo to Journal

Many ready-to-use weed control products are available in garden and home stores, and they’re great for use in small areas. Just be sure to apply them with the same precautions and techniques used for larger situations.

If broadleaf weeds weren’t enough of an enemy to your lawn, your grassy areas can also become infested with unwanted grasses – monocots that put forth a single seed leaf. What qualifies as a grassy weed? Any turfgrass that has a different color, texture and blade width than your turfgrass planting. For example, tall fescue is a perfectly fine, sturdy turfgrass by itself, but it becomes a weed in your lawn if you’ve planted 100 percent Bermuda grass.

To eliminate grassy weeds, you first have to determine what species of grass is invading your lawn, because the eradication method required depends on whether the grass is an annual or perennial. Annual grasses respond well to pre-emergent herbicides, which prevent grass seeds from germinating each spring. Perennial grasses can only be controlled with nonselective postemergent herbicides that contain sodium glyphosate. These herbicides have the unfortunate side effect of killing all desirable plant life, as well as the undesirable grass – meaning you’ll have to reseed the entire area once the weeds and turfgrass are removed.

Pre-emergent herbicides are typically dry, granular preparations applied in early spring as soon as the lawn thaws. They should be broadcast over the affected area about 2-3 weeks before the soil warms and weedy grasses begin to germinate (but only after your regular turfgrass has started to grow). That means you should know when your particular weedy grass germinates and where it’s located on your lawn. This second piece of information may not be as attainable as it sounds, since you’ll have to recall or take note of where the weedy grass appeared the year before it disappeared as seed into the ground. (If you keep a garden journal, consider noting how your grass is doing each season from now on.)

Pick a day when the temperature is 60-80 degrees F, the air is still and there’s no rain in the forecast for at least 48 hours. Don’t forget to don protective clothing – including gloves, a respirator and eye protection – when applying herbicides to your lawn, no matter if you’re spot-treating or applying chemicals over a large area.

When it comes to disseminating the herbicides, it’s best to use a fertilizer spreader that’s calibrated to dispense at the recommended rate on the package label. Some experts recommend broadcasting ½ the rate on the label in one direction, then ½ at a right angle to that first direction for even coverage.

Warnings

All garden chemicals are hazardous. Always read and follow label directions exactly, and be careful when handling and applying. Protective clothing and a respirator mask are also a must anytime you apply chemicals, and don’t forget to protect nearby plants from overspray.
Not all herbicides are the same. Know the difference between broad-spectrum herbicides and pre-emergent agents that lay down a seed-sprouting barrier: Pre-emergent herbicides don’t recognize the difference between good seeds and bad ones – they just prevent all seeds from sprouting; broad-spectrum herbicides kill growing plants of all species – grass and broadleaf plants alike. Both have a place in the garden, but with very different purposes and effects.

Tips

Carefully apply broad-spectrum herbicides for the best results. This means wetting each plant with the spray. These sprays are systemic in their action, meaning they’re absorbed by the foliage and travel throughout the plant to kill it. An effective dose requires that it be applied in sufficient quantity and be allowed to dry on the plant. Within 4-6 hours, the absorption is complete, so it’ll still be effective if washed off by rain later.
If it’s too late in the year to use a pre-emergent herbicide on your lawn and you can’t spot-target the problem with a broad-spectrum agent, be sure to take notes on where the unwanted grasses are so you can get them before they show up again in spring.

Page 1 of 4

Next Steps

Articles

Your Lawn in Need: Stop the Broadleaf Weed
Without proper lawn maintenance, broadleaf weeds can be a big problem in turfgrass – and getting rid of these lawn invaders can be a recurring headache if it’s not done correctly. Learn the right approach to eliminating these particular plant pests in your yard.
Repairing Dead Spots in Your Lawn
It happens to the best of homeowners: dead spots in the lawn. Whatever the cause, these dry, lifeless spots in an otherwise thriving lawn can ruin the overall look and value of your yard. Fortunately, there’s an easy solution. Learn how to fix these problem areas in your turfgrass.
Incorporating Amendments to Your Lawn Soil
Amending your soil is a simple process, but it does require some precision. Once you know what nutrients and other amendments your soil is lacking, you can get ready to mix them in for a healthy lawn. Just follow this step-by-step guide to help get it done right.

RATE THIS PAGE

On average this item has been rated a 4 out of 5.