Soil is the cradle of your lawn, determining to a large extent the health of the turfgrass growing in it. If your soil doesn’t offer the right composition, your lawn can’t live up to its full potential – and it’s going to suffer…or even die. That’s why it’s so important to learn what your soil has and hasn’t got, so you can create the best growing conditions for your grass.
Don’t know your soil pH? Grab a portable pH meter to find out if it’s in the ideal range of 6.5 and 7.0.
Photo Credit: ©2000 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
When the soil conditions are right, your lawn will be a pleasure to behold.
Photo Credit: ©2000 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
Assessing your soil involves two questions: What is the state of your soil, and what type of soil does your turfgrass or groundcover prefer? To help you figure the answer to the first question, you’ll need to determine your soil’s density. For existing soil, you first want to know its density – whether it’s light, sandy soil or sandy loam, which is quick-draining but holds few nutrients; or if it’s dense clay or clay loam, which holds moisture but is so hard that tender grass roots have a tough time penetrating to take hold. Either type is undesirable and requires correction.
The best way to determine what kind of soil you’ve got is to perform a percolation test to see how fast your soil absorbs liquid. You can also get a clue about your soil’s content simply by picking up a handful of it and making a fist. When you open your hand, does the soil sift through your fingers (sandy), stick together (clayey) or crumble lightly (loamy – a mix of sand, silt and clay)?
No matter what type of soil you have, check to see if it’s compacted – compressed by foot traffic (or other means) so that it lacks essential oxygen for plant growth. Compacted soil also has few microbes or earthworms to help keep it fertile and aerated, and it’s often too dense for many roots to break through. If this is the case, you’ll need to aerate your soil before planting any new grass.
Another consideration is your soil’s pH level (or its acid-alkaline balance), which is measured on a scale of 1 to 14. The lower the number is below midpoint 7.0, the more acidic the soil. Lawns generally require slightly acidic soil, with a pH level of 6.5-7.0. If your pH level is below 6.5, it’s simply too acidic for most lawns, and you’ll need to add ground limestone to “sweeten” the soil. If it tests over 7.0, you’ll need to increase the acid level, or “sour” the soil, by working in sulfur. You can determine your soil’s pH level by conducting a soil test or using a pH meter.
Last, study a clump of your soil for fertility (its humus content, or amount of decayed organic matter). Soil that doesn’t have enough will be pale brown or red, and it won’t hold together well. A nutrient analysis is also important. A soil test is the best way to determine specific nutrient imbalances and help establish what corrective actions to take, but if your lawn is off-color, something’s probably off-balance. Yellowed grass indicates poor nitrogen content. Thin, weak growth and a reddish-purple tinge to grass blades can mean not enough phosphorus. And grass with brown tips and yellow veining can be a result of too little potassium. While these nutrients can be added to the soil, it’s crucial that the area be properly aerated to receive them. (You may also want to encourage earthworms and microbes into the soil by adding compost, which contains abundant organic matter.)
Once you understand the soil you have, compare its nutrients and composition with the needs of the turfgrass or groundcover you want to grow. A little soil knowledge will go a long way toward ensuring a long-lasting, healthy yard that you’ll be able to enjoy for years.
