If you’re a turf fan, you probably already know that fall is the big time of year when it comes to regular lawn care maintenance. Grass needs a good dose of TLC before winter settles in so it can return vigorous and healthy the next spring. But if it’s late summer and your lawn is really struggling, you shouldn’t wait for fall.

Weeds
Weeds will quickly take over if your turf dies from drought stress. The solution: Kill or pull the weeds; seed or plant turfgrass; then water, water, water!
Photo Credit: David L. Morgan
Droughty leaves
Sometimes it’s best to look up – not down – to see the first signs of drought. If the leaves on your trees are brown, it’s likely your grass is suffering, too.
Photo Credit: David L. Morgan
Sparse lawn
Even if the weather is hot and dry, you can still seed a sparse area like this – you just have to take care of it.
Photo Credit: David L. Morgan

How can you tell if your grass is suffering? Look carefully. Are there bare or brown spots? Are the grass leaves twisted in their growth habit or unusually light in color? Are weeds thriving where a solid turf cover once existed? If you answer yes to any of these, it’s time to take action.

Here are some ideas to help your summer-weary lawn along on its road to recovery:

  • Water, water everywhere – and every day, if you need to! When it’s 105 degrees F, throw out those spring-watering recommendations and do what you have to in order to save your drought-stressed grass. That may mean using the old hose-and-sprinkler method on “hot spots” in your lawn, or even late evening hand-watering. The fact is, you have to do it, or you’ll lose it!
  • Kill existing weeds now before they become established and go to seed. If you must use chemicals, always read the label first. Make certain you select the correct herbicide for your particular type of turf. And use the right concentrations, particularly if you use weed-and-feed products.
  • Consider overseeding your thin warm-season grass with a cool-season cover for winter to protect the soil from runoff and erosion. In warm climates, cool-season grasses like perennial ryegrass and tall fescue will die out as spring’s heat arrives so you can establish your turf of choice for the growing season. Overseeding also gives you the benefit of having a green lawn all winter long. (The best time to overseed is about a month before your yard normally turns brown.)
  • Get out and do some thatch control. Removing excess thatch helps turfgrass survive the winter and lets it absorb much-needed water. For most grasses, thatch should be less than ½ an inch.
  • Replant bare areas if you live in the Southwest and South, where warm weather extends deep into fall. Plant seed, sprigs or sod. (The method you use to establish your lawn depends largely on the type of grass you choose. Sodding is the most expensive, followed by sprigging, then seeding. Seeding may be done by hydromulching or hydroseeding, but its success rate may be limited in fall if you have an early freeze. Many people prefer to sod because it provides instant cover.)
  • Keep any new grass watered well during its establishment period, particularly during those hot summer days that seem to linger on (and on).
  • Raise your mower height by ¼-½ of an inch. Longer leaf blades encourage greater root growth, which helps turf make it through winter better.
  • Use a mulching lawn mower. It cuts the grass and fallen leaves, then provides a natural cover for your yard through the winter, as well as added nutrients to the soil.
  • Fill in low areas of your lawn with a soil close to that in texture and makeup of your native soils – even if you don’t like them. If you use something too different, you may be creating a small pond instead of good drainage. Piling soils of different particle sizes – even using sand – creates a barrier to water percolation. (Don’t use sand unless you live in Florida or have a naturally sandy soil.)
  • If you live in southern regions of the US, apply a pre-emergent herbicide now to take care of those pesky late winter/early spring weeds that will otherwise start popping up about Feb. 15. (You’ll be glad you did!)
  • Control those pesky white grubs. If you live in an area where these pests chomp up the turf, it’s not too late to apply chemical or organic controls. Don’t let the little monsters destroy the beautiful lawn you’ve carefully nurtured through spring and summer.
  • Continue to care for your lawn – whether new or established – until it goes dormant, making certain it’s weed-free, frequently watered and well-fed. In fall, use a recommended low-nitrogen fertilizer (but higher in phosphorus) to build strong roots. (Remember, the best weed control is a good fertilizer program!)

With a little elbow grease now, before the cool weather finally settles in, you’ll have far fewer issues – and a much healthier lawn – come spring!