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To Install or Restore? (That is the Question)

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Dead Lawn
Photo Credit: ©2000 Dolezal Publishing/Reed Estabrook
If more than 50 percent of your lawn is dead or covered in weeds, consider starting over from scratch.

If you have an existing lawn that’s looking a little worse for the wear, ask yourself this: Is my lawn salvageable, or do I need to start all over again?

You might want to restore rather than replace your entire lawn if somewhere between 20-40 percent of it is dead or has spindly, sparse growth. Even if your lawn looks green, check closely for weeds. If 20-40 percent of your lawn is just broadleaf or grassy weed patches, you may be able to fix those problem areas. You may also be able to get away with just sprucing up the lawn if it’s just overly spongy and filled with thatch (dead grass).

On the other hand, if more than 50 percent of your lawn is completely dead, just bare ground or totally choked out by weeds, starting from scratch may be the best option for you. This holds true if your soil seems to be a problem, too. If the ground is so hard and compacted that a screwdriver can bounce off it, it’s time to rip out the lawn and fix your soil to get any new grass off to a good start!

Whether you decide to restore or replace your turfgrass, try to figure out why your lawn went downhill in the first place. Did you neglect to de-thatch it or forget to aerate, fertilize or water it properly? Now’s the time to get your soil tested, too. This will help you determine if your soil needs any key nutrients and how to amend it properly, so you can correct all of the correctable problems before your new lawn is planted.

Once you’ve assessed your lawn situation and have your laundry list of things you need to do to help it thrive again, step back and figure out whether you want to take on the whole job, part of it or have a lawn-care specialist take care of it entirely. (If you choose the latter, be sure to get several detailed bids for the job before you hire anyone.)

Warnings
  • Remember to examine your lot’s grading. A lawn should always slope slightly away from your home’s foundation. If sodden soil, puddles or flooding have been problems in the past, you may need to install a drainage system to funnel away the excess water. If you have a deeply sloping site, you may want to terrace it or consult with a civil engineer before you start.
  • The most common and treatable diseases of lawns come from fungal sources. They typically occur as a result of site or care problems. There are more serious diseases – viral in nature – that can’t be cured. If you discover a viral disease in your lawn, the only cure is wholesale replacement.
Facts
  • Soil testers are available as electronic meters or test kits sold by garden retailers, or tests can also be handled through mail order. Your local Cooperative Extension can help with soil testing as well. No matter which way your soil is tested, as long as you get a good sample representative of your lawn’s site, you’ll wind up with equally reliable results.
Definitions
  • De-thatching: A relatively simple process of removing the dead grass from your lawn.
 
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