This may surprise you, but palms are different than trees and are really more like a grass. They generally have only a single growing point (exceptions are clustering palms), and they won’t branch and continue to grow if that growing point is destroyed. They also have a restricted zone of root initiation, meaning that no roots can form above a certain point on the trunk. Many palm roots won’t branch and continue to grow when they’re cut, but they’ll die back to the main trunk where a new root must grow. Unlike other trees, the trunk and roots of palms never get any larger in diameter than what is set at the time the bud or root develops. These differences make the planting and maintenance of a palm different than with other plants.

The soil line on this uprooted and cut pygmy date palm is pointed out.

Photo Credit: Dr. Juanita Popenoe

This sabal palm probably had its fronds mown off repeatedly when young.

Photo Credit: Dr. Juanita Popenoe

At planting, it’s critical to get the zone of root initiation close to the soil surface, with a small part aboveground. Palms that are planted too deeply won’t be any better supported. (In fact, deep-planted roots will die from lack of oxygen, just like with other plants.)

Remove the palm from its pot or root wrapping, locate the soil line and be sure not to plant the tree any deeper than that. Palms naturally produce some roots from the trunk portion above the ground – something like the prop roots on corn. Take care not to damage existing roots as you place the plant in a hole dug to be the same size as the rootball. (Palms usually have a very compact rootball and no spreading is required.)

Some palms, like the sabal or cabbage palm, require all new roots to grow from the main trunk root initiation zone after transplanting. That’s why such a small rootball is dug with the plant. The palm is essentially like a huge cutting that must grow new roots to become established. During this time, it’s best to have fewer leaves transpiring moisture that cannot be taken up by roots that have been cut in transplanting. This is the one time when it’s okay to remove a majority of the palm fronds, but no more than 2/3 of the open fronds. (The exception is sabal palms – all open fronds may be removed from them.) Fronds are often tied up rather than removed to reduce water loss, but this practice can lead to disease and insect problems. The water stored in the trunk is what will sustain the palm until new roots are initiated and start to function. So maintaining a moist root zone is critical to survival until the new roots can form.

The site for planting palms depends on the type of palm and varies with light and moisture requirements. Some palms, like lady palms or needle palms, are smaller and grow well in a partly shady site. Other palms, like date palms and Washingtonia species, require full sun. Palms that are adapted to desert areas, like date palms, don’t like to have wet feet and should only be planted in well-drained sites, whereas sabal or needle palms are adapted to swampy areas with fluctuating water levels. Check on the specific requirements of the palm you’re interested in before choosing one for your particular location.