Pruning Basics
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Pruning isn’t just something that happens to you when you sit in the bathtub too long; it’s also necessary for good plant structure. There are four basic techniques for pruning deciduous plants. They are:
Heading back. This technique is used when we want to “head” a plant in a certain direction (hence the name). We most often head back to control the size of a plant or keep it symmetrical. In other words, heading back is done mostly for aesthetic purposes. When heading back, we remove top growth back to a node (the place on the stem from which leaves and branches emerge), without removing too much of the plant at any time. Since heading back usually involves the removal of only a few branches, it can be done just about anytime of the year. Forsythias are often pruned this way.
 Add Photo to Journal |  | | Photo Credit: Lane Greer | | This holly was cut down to its base in an effort to rejuvenate it. |
Renewal. In renewal pruning (also called “thinning”), we cut out old, unproductive branches, usually over a period of years, both to control the size of the plant and encourage new growth. In renewal pruning, we remove old branches or stems entirely down to the ground, although we sometimes cut back to lower nodes. Lilacs are often pruned like this.
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| Warnings |
- For flowering shrubs that bloom on last year’s wood, wait to prune until after the plant has flowered; otherwise, you’ll get no blooms for the season.
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| Definitions |
- Deciduous: Woody plants (trees and shrubs) that drop their leaves every year in fall.
- Node: The place on the stem from which leaves and branches emerge.
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| Faqs |
- Q: How much of a plant can I cut at one time?
A: To be on the safe side, cut no more than 1/3. If you have a plant that you don’t mind sacrificing, cut it down to the ground and see what happens.
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| Tools |
- Use hand pruners for small branches and long-handled loppers for larger ones. For extremely large/tick branches, use a pruning saw.
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