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Pruning: More Than Good Grooming

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Susan Mason

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Pruning With Power Saw
Photo Credit: ©2002 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
Use a battery-powered reciprocating saw to clean off dead branches and remove limbs that cross back through the center of the tree to keep it open.

Pruning is important throughout the life of a deciduous tree. You can prune to shape young trees or to keep mature ones healthy – and you can prune to allow light to penetrate more easily into a mature tree’s canopy.

When working with a young tree, the goal is to provide it with a good framework for future growth. For a shade tree, the ideal structure is a strong central trunk with 5-8 branches radiating from the trunk at different heights. At the beginning of each growing season, remove branches that grow inward or rub across nearby limbs, as well as any branches that are growing at angles of less than 45 degrees to the main trunk. As a young tree grows, gradually remove lower branches to raise the crown to the desired height.

Before trimming, examine the tree to identify the branch collar – the ring of rough bark that encircles the area where a limb attaches to the trunk. When pruning, cut just outside the branch collar. Leave the cut open to the air. Avoid wound-dressing compounds, which once were commonly used but are now considered unnecessary.

On mature trees, prune out decaying branches since they can threaten the overall health of a tree. Also remove any crossed limbs, which helps the remaining branches stay strong and has the added advantage of letting dappled sunlight into the shrub layer below.

If you’re removing a large limb from a mature tree, use the three-cut method: Make the first cut on the underside of the limb, about 1 foot from the main trunk. This cut, which should extend about ¼ of the way through the limb, will keep the bark from tearing. Make the second cut from the top, about 1 inch beyond the bottom cut. Cut all the way through the limb, leaving a 1-inch stub. With your third cut, you’ll remove the stub flush with the tree’s branch collar.

Remember that pruning deciduous trees channels growth to their strongest branches. But timing is everything! Prune flowering species after they bloom if they form flowers on their second-year wood. Otherwise, prune in autumn after the leaves fall.

Warnings
  • Sharpen and sterilize tools before moving from tree to tree. Many bacterial, viral and fungal infections (such as fusarium wilt, fireblight and leaf gall) are spread through infected tools. A simple solution of 1 quart of rubbing alcohol and a ½-cup of bleach in a 5-gallon bucket filled with water will help sterilize your tools. Dip the tools for at least 20 minutes before beginning, then dry them and proceed with pruning. After you finish each plant, dip the tools again for 5 minutes.
Facts
  • Trees planted in sites with abundant sunlight sometimes send up suckers and assume bush-like, multi-trunk forms. Planting low shrubs around their base will shade them from this extra light and help prevent nascent buds from sprouting.
Tips
  • Always look for and prune away inward crossing branches. They reduce the light penetration within the plant, causing interior foliage to die.
  • Make a habit of checking your trees every year. If heavy pruning is required on large trees, consult with an expert, such as a certified arborist or tree surgeon.
Share
  • Come to The Garden Party and share your tree-grooming success stories with the rest of our Learn2Grow community! Post some “before” and “after” pictures of your trees, create a blog, or post a question in the L2G Forums.
 
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