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Contrary to their high-maintenance reputation, roses don’t require a ton of TLC. But they do need some regular maintenance, and pruning is part of that routine.
 With the right pruning, your roses will continue to bloom beautifully – and repeatedly Photo Credit: ©2001 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
Since roses store the bulk of their energy in their thorny canes, you should avoid heavy pruning at any time – but especially before winter snows bring an end to the gardening season. When it’s time to prune, cut back lightly to eliminate any dead, diseased or dying canes. Also use this time to shape your plants or to prompt new and vigorous growth.
There are two general classes of pruning – annual and seasonal – used with most repeat bloomers. (Note: Roses that bloom just once a year – non-remontant roses – require one-time pruning, done after their flowers fade.)
Annual Rose Pruning
The goal of annual pruning is to shape plants as they emerge from winter dormancy, so don’t prune until early spring (or in fall after the plant loses its leaves in mild-winter climates). And wait to prune climbers and annual blooming roses after their spring or early summer bloom, removing only lateral canes with spent blossoms. For repeat-blooming hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, most polyantha roses and miniatures, follow the steps shown in this first set of pictures and described in their captions. Chip and compost only the healthy clippings – throw away any diseased leaves and branches.
Annual Rose Pruning - Step 1 Annual pruning should be done when roses are dormant. In cold-winter climates, prune in early spring, always before spring growth begins. In mild-winter climates, prune in fall once the rose loses its leaves. Using clean pruners, remove all dead canes and any less than 3⁄8 of an inch in diameter. Photo Credit: ©2001 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
Annual Rose Pruning - Step 2 Remove lateral branches that grow inward, crossing through the center of the plant. Prune weak, outward-facing laterals, cutting at their junction. Split, discolored canes or those with dry, brown pith inside have freeze damage and should also be cut away. Photo Credit: ©2001 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
Annual Rose Pruning - Step 3 Top the canes to 16-24 inches in overall length. The rose should now resemble an inverted bowl, with several strong, equally spaced canes. Photo Credit: ©2001 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
Seasonal Rose Pruning
When it comes to seasonal pruning, the goal is to remove spent blossoms to foster new flower buds on repeat bloomers, as well as to repair damage. Roses stripped of spent blossoms quickly develop new blooms because the plant’s energy doesn’t go into producing rose hips. A weekly cycle of pruning is right for most roses, but do allow your plants to set hips in fall to build strength for winter. For sure success year after year, just take the steps shown in the following pictures and described in their captions.
Seasonal Rose Pruning - Step 1 Start your seasonal pruning by pinching off spent blossoms, leaving lateral buds to bloom. For fewer, larger, showier blooms, pinch off lateral buds before the main blossoms open to direct all the plant’s energy to the remaining bud. Photo Credit: ©2001 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
Seasonal Rose Pruning - Step 2 When all buds have faded, follow the cane downward until you find the first outward-facing, 5-leaflet group. Using clean pruners, prune the cane above the leaflet’s stem. Make a 45-degree (diagonal) cut through the cane with its lower side opposite the leaflet’s stem. Photo Credit: ©2001 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
Seasonal Rose Pruning - Step 3 Eliminate any developing shoots that grow inward and cross the center of the plant. Also cut away any diseased or dead canes. Photo Credit: ©2001 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
Seasonal Rose Pruning - Step 4 A few weeks after pruning, new lateral shoots and blooms will develop from the nascent bud at the leaflet. In about 4-6 weeks, each will bear new flower buds that will bloom, renewing the cycle. Photo Credit: ©2001 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard
With the right pruning, your roses will continue to bloom beautifully – and repeatedly – for years to come!
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| Facts |
- Hybrid tea roses bloom several times during the garden season, creating waves of flowers termed “flushes.” Each flush reaches its peak, then subsides. It’s important to deadhead old blossoms in order to spur the plant to bud anew and bloom again a few weeks later.
- Climber, pillar and rambler roses bear their blooms on lateral branches that sprout from the main cane in the second season of growth. Pruning away all the laterals with spent blossoms soon after they fade will keep the plants vigorous and their blooms large.
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| Tips |
- Dipping pruning shears and saws in rubbing alcohol or a bleach-and-water solution between cuts helps prevent spreading diseases from plant to plant.
- When you’ve finished pruning, rinse off your cutting tools and wipe them down. Allow them to air-dry completely, then spray them with a water-displacing oil like WD-40®. Prompt care of your tools means they’ll stay sharp and useful for several seasons.
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| Faqs |
- Q: How do I prune my standard “tree” rose?
A: Prune tree roses annually by selecting their strongest canes and creating an inverted-bowl shape. New laterals will sprout in spring, creating an attractive ball-shaped head. Also cut off any suckers from the trunk.
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| Tools |
- The three essential pruning tools for roses are bypass hand pruners, lopping shears and a compact pruning saw. Always use sharp, clean tools when pruning.
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