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| Photo Credit: ©2000 Dolezal Publishing/Image Point |
| Miniature roses tend to do better in containers than their full-sized counterparts. Though the flowers tend to be smaller, their clustered bloom patterns can be prolific and dramatic. | A rose is still a rose – and an ideal container plant at that. While certain roses (most notably miniatures) are more suited to pots than other varieties, container roses still offer the same wonderful characteristics as those grown in the ground, including scent and color, and have similar care and pruning needs. Many roses are sold in winter and early spring as bare-root plants, which simply means they’re free of any soil or container. Bare-root roses allow you to examine and evaluate the health of the entire plant before you make your purchase. A branching trio of strong, green or brown, well-spaced root stems (or “canes”) is ideal – soft, discolored and tangled roots should send up a red flag, so avoid them. Even if you choose a compact rose variety as a container plant, you’ll need a pot large enough to support its root system – at minimum 18 inches in diameter for a single plant. Like all containers, the pot should drain freely. Be careful about what type of pot material you pick, however. Moderately porous containers are okay, but avoid those that that dry out too quickly. Roses thrive in direct sunlight during their peak growing and blooming season, so containers that wick away moisture will do so extra quickly when exposed to all that direct sunlight and heat. Because container roses can dry out easily, it’s a good idea to shade the pots, while still making sure the plant gets enough sunlight. One way to do this is to slip a plain rose container into a more decorative cachepot to keep it cool. The best spots for potted roses include places like covered entries or under porch eaves. This should give your plants plenty of light to get those gorgeous blooms but still ensure some shade from midafternoon’s peak heat.
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| Photo Credit: ©2000 Dolezal Publishing/John M. Rickard |
| Container roses need more frequent watering than those grown in the ground. Always apply water to the soil at the base of the stem (not on the leaves) to prevent mildew or other fungal diseases. | As with inground roses, pruning container roses is essential to achieve the bloom and growth you want. The goal in pruning is to create an open and upward fan of branches resembling an open cup or vase. The branches should be free from each other, and any crossing stems should be removed. Most roses rely on new growth for their bloom, so old growth is often superfluous and will likely appear thorny and bare. An exception is some climber species; they bloom on second-year wood. Cutting away stems that have just bloomed would be cutting away the key to next year’s floral display. In cold-winter climates, leave your rose’s last-year’s growth alone until spring – the branches hold nutrients vital for the plant to survive the winter. In spring, as new buds start to form, cut out dead, spindly and crossing branches and leave just three or four buds per remaining stem. An angled cut just above the last outward-facing growth will promote a bushy appearance and a better bloom. Like its stems, a rose’s roots can become tangled. After a few years in a container, remove the potted rose and prune it down to a few healthy, well-spaced roots, then replant in fresh potting soil. In contrast to most nursery starts, bare-root roses come without soil already protecting their roots. While this allows you to check for the health and firmness of the root system, it requires a special – though relatively easy – technique for planting. Just take the steps shown in the following pictures and described in their captions to plant your own beautiful container rose to enjoy this season!
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