Tree Planting and Care

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Dr. David L. Morgan

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Photo Credit: Dr. David L. Morgan

You can plant containerized trees any time of the year.

Planting a tree isn’t that hard, but it does take more than just digging a hole and plopping the plant in. To make sure your tree lives on in your yard and not in your memory, you have to make sure the hole’s just the right size and that the tree’s placed in it correctly. But don’t be intimidated – it’s really not that difficult. Best of all, you’ll save a bunch of money by planting it yourself!

First, make sure you buy a good tree. That means looking it over carefully before you fork over any money. Trees come containerized (in round, plastic containers), bare-root (dormant, with no soil attached to the roots) and balled-and-burlapped (or B&B; with the root system held together by wires or cord).

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Tree roots spread laterally and quickly after being planted. If roots are tightly bound in a container, they won’t be able to unwind.

You can find containerized and B&B trees most times of the year. If you’re looking at a containerized tree, don’t be shy – knock off the pot and look at the root system. Make sure the roots haven’t circled the container walls – a sure sign that the tree’s spent too much time in its pot. Circled roots never straighten out, so the tree won’t grow to its full size. (It could even strangle itself with its roots in the long run.)

Most large trees are sold B&B. The burlap simply holds the roots and soil together. If you’re looking for a tree in spring, make sure it has new leaves and check that they’re not wilted from poor watering practices. Finally, be sure all of its limbs are alive and kicking. You might want to ask the seller for a guarantee of good health, too. (And if you’re looking at a B&B, make sure it’s wound with cord and not wire. You have to loosen the bindings around the top of the root-ball after the tree’s placed in the hole, and wire is harder to manage.)

Facts

There’s no need to fertilize a new tree until after it’s been in the ground for at least a year. Trees native to your region – and your soils – may need little or no fertilizer at all, and fruit trees may produce better crops with supplemental fertilizer. Contact your local County Cooperative Extension office for recommendations.

Tips

Make a 3- to 4-inch-high dike around your newly planted tree, about a foot from the trunk, to help you water thoroughly in spring and summer. In about a year, when the tree’s established and doesn’t need a lot of additional attention, the dike will have dissolved.
Use mulch around the base of your new tree to help conserve water and keep weeds away.

Faqs

Question: Are root amendments necessary? Answer: Nope. Some garden centers and nurseries insist that you add liquid supplements to your irrigation water for the first year after planting. These concoctions have vitamins and hormones that are supposed to stimulate root formation. Do they work? The jury’s still out. But they probably won’t hurt the tree if you follow the label. Just don’t spend a lot of money on them!

Tools

Use sharp-shooters or ordinary shovels to dig tree holes. Avoid augers and backhoes because their power-drive blades can compact the soil along the sides of the hole – especially clay soils – making it harder for roots to grow.

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The Mighty Tree – Enjoying and Selecting
Trees have a lot to offer the garden, no matter what the season – from summer shade to winter interest. Here are a few things to consider before buying a tree for your yard.
Tree Maintenance Considerations
Before you buy a tree for your yard, consider the maintenance requirements of various tree species.
Staking Trees the Right Way
For a young tree to grow strong and healthy, it needs to be properly staked. Learn how to keep your new trees safe and standing tall for years to come.

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