Transplant Success for Trees and Shrubs

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Susan Mason

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Successful transplanting requires a few tools, a good amount of digging and thorough watering to restore water loss from the root ball during planting and to settle the soil in the hole.

Sometimes you just have to move an established tree or shrub from one part of the garden to another. Maybe you’re adding a deck in the back yard, and a small tree is in the way. Or maybe the previous homeowners planted a shrub that you’d prefer in a different spot. Whatever the reason, the secret to transplant success is all about good timing, good technique and good watering after the move.

The best time to transplant trees and shrubs is generally in fall or early winter, when deciduous plants are dormant and evergreens are in a resting state. Moving plants in the dormant season allows the plant’s energy to be directed to root growth, so that by the time top growth occurs in spring the roots will be ready to provide the water and nutrient uptake required.

Another reason it’s best to transplant during the dormant season is to keep water loss through a plant’s leaves to a minimum. During dormancy, deciduous plants have dropped their leaves, while evergreen leaves continue to transpire (or lose water) at a much slower pace. If you have no choice and need to transplant an evergreen or deciduous plant during the growing season, consider using an antitranspirant spray. Available at most garden centers, these sprays reduce the amount of water loss through the leaves and ease transplanting shock.

When it’s time to transplant, dig a trench around your tree or shrub, aiming to get as large a root ball as you can. For a spreading plant, dig at least midway between the trunk and the branch tips. For a columnar plant, allow 1 foot in diameter of root ball for every 2 feet of plant height.

As you trench around your tree or shrub, push the shovel straight down to get as clean a cut as possible on the roots. (It may help to remove some of the excess soil with a hand trowel as you dig deeper.) After you’ve dug 1-3 feet deep, carefully lever up the root ball, supporting it as much as possible with a broad, flat shovel.

Carefully transport the plant to its new location, using a wheelbarrow or the help of a friend if necessary. Replant as soon as you possibly can, employing the same techniques used for planting a new tree or shrub. Irrigate immediately, then continue to water well throughout the next growing season or until the plant is well-established. For step-by-step instructions, follow the steps shown in the following pictures and described in their captions. Happy transplanting!

Warnings

Transplanting a tree may mean moving soil-borne bacterial problems from place to place. If you’re in doubt as to the health of your tree or shrub, consult a professional before proceeding with the transplant.
Transplanting well-established landscape trees is an uncertain affair. Even professional arborists with specialized equipment designed to minimize transplant shock are sometimes unsuccessful. Give your plant the best start possible by moving it to where its sun and soil requirements will be met, and water it regularly.

Facts

While established trees are generally drought-resistant, water your new transplants whenever the soil surface has dried to a depth of 6 inches or more, unless the care instructions for the species make other recommendation. Waterings should continue for the first two seasons of growth in the new site.
Applying mulch to the soil around your transplanted shrubs and trees mimics the conditions found in woodlands and forests. It preserves moisture, limits soil erosion and moderates changes in temperature to limit frost heaving in areas with cold-winter climates and overheating in those with arid climates.

Faqs

Q: How big should I dig the new hole for my transplanted tree or shrub?
A: That depends on how big your root ball is. Generally speaking, it should be as deep as your root ball is high and 2-4 inches wider in diameter than the root ball.

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