The Drip Equip

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Rich Binsacca

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If you’ve ever had a container garden (or have tried to grow one), you know how difficult it can be to keep up with all that watering potted plants need. And as the gardening season heats up, it can become a battle to water all those containers properly before you leave for work so that everything can just survive the day. If this sounds familiar, it might be time to try an automatic drip irrigation system.

Drip irrigation systems are the most reliable way to deliver and control the amount of water that container plants receive.

You’ll need to gather a few components for your automatic drip irrigation system: A) couplers and fittings, B) drip irrigation water filter, C) battery-timed hose-bib irrigation valve, D) drip irrigation line hose, E) drip emitters and F) line-placement stakes.

As a watering method, a drip irrigation system’s appeal extends far beyond those who lack time for hand-watering – it’s really the ultimate commitment of care for your plants. In fact, automated irrigation systems are the most reliable way to deliver and control the amount of water that container plants receive, as well as determine where and when they have it. And the fact that such a system makes caring for your plants a little easier means you’ll have more time to plant, prune, propagate – and simply enjoy – your garden (and maybe even savor that morning cup of coffee before work).

The pictures in this article show the basic elements of a simple hose-bib drip irrigation system. The main line typically comes in the same gauge and lengths as standard garden hoses. Manufacturers rate supply lines according to the number of emitters they can support while effectively serving a given number of plants. The drip tubing that runs between the supply hose and the emitters is typically rated for the volume of water it carries. Plan to install a single supply tube for every 10 container plants served by the system, and always keep a complete timer-controlled circuit to three supply hoses with a maximum of 30 container plants. (In areas with low water pressure, you may need to reduce the number of emitters on each circuit.)

In addition to these main components, there are a bevy of accessories and add-on features worthy of consideration. Main lines can be fitted with a variety of different emitters that perform different functions, including misters, bubblers or sprayers. (Misters are ideal for plants that benefit from absorbing moisture through their leaves. Bubblers gurgle at the root line, providing a large supply of water all at one time. Sprayers distribute water in a radial pattern, ranging from quarter-circle to full-circle at either low or high pressure, in different diameters of coverage.) All emitters are flow-rated, allowing you to determine how long they should run at every cycle to deliver adequate water to each container planting.

Regardless of the type of system you use, you’ll still need to keep a watchful eye on whether every plant is getting a proper dose of water at the right time. As helpful and wonderful as drip systems are, lines can still clog, water pressures vary, and weather conditions affect the amount of water plants need. If close monitoring of your system isn’t practical for you, consider adding sensors that measure the soil’s moisture level and signal the system to turn on and off as needed. (These are great to have if you’re subject to water conservation requirements or if you’re going on vacation.)

Take the easy steps shown in the following photographs and described in their captions to install a simple hose-bib drip system.

Drip Irrigation - Step 1

Couple the timer to the hose-bib valve. Then install an in-line water filter to help prevent clogged lines and emitters. (Adapter bushings may be needed where threads don’t match exactly.)

Drip Irrigation - Step 2

From the filter, attach the drip supply hose and clamp it tightly with a hose clamp. This large-diameter hose carries pressurized water to the attachment points on each drip line. It may have several joints and junctions, depending on your garden’s layout.

Drip Irrigation - Step 3

Wherever a drip line is needed, install a T-fitting or terminate the supply hose with a drip-line coupler, available in 2-, 4- and 8-connection models. Attach 1⁄4-inch supply tubing and one or more emitters as needed to water your container plants.

Facts

Be wary of drainage: Conventional wisdom says that a plant is sufficiently watered when it begins to drain, but that’s not always the case – especially if the water drains quickly. A dry root ball can separate from the pot’s wall, allowing water to flow past without penetrating the soil. If this is the case, submerge the pot above its rim in a bucket of water until no more bubbles appear. Then you can be assured the root ball has been adequately saturated.
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In winter or dormant months, watering needs can shift dramatically to the low end of the scale – often to once a week or less. For outdoor container plants in cold climates, late morning is often the best time to water (if there’s a threat of frost, hold off). When overnight frost is more likely, a winter evening’s watering should be avoided.

Tips

Water your container plants automatically without unsightly hoses. Using a masonry drill, create a hole in the bottom of the catch basin and container and feed the water supply tube into the planter. You can choose whether to waterproof the fitting with silicone caulk or leave it an open passage to drain excess water from the catch basin.
Maintain your battery-powered timer valves to guarantee reliable service: Start every spring with a fresh set of batteries and change them midway through the gardening season. Test your system at least monthly.

Faqs

Q: Do I need to bury the system’s tubing?
A: Unless seeing the tubes bothers you, then no – you don’t have to bury them.

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